A Short Guide to Rome’s Jewish Ghetto

Author: Kate Zagorski


Our Guide to Rome's Jewish Ghetto

A trip to Rome would not be complete without a visit to the Jewish Ghetto. The long, tumultuous story of the Jewish community in Rome plays an important part in the culture, food and history of the city. Here is our quick guide to one of the city’s most fascinating neighbourhoods.

The Jewish community in Rome is the oldest in Europe, dating back to the 2nd century BC. After living peacefully in the city for many centuries, in 1555 Pope Paul IV passed a Papal Bull declaring that the Jewish population should be moved to the undesirable area of town near the Tiber river where they were subject to strict laws and restrictions. Walls and gates were built to lock the Jews in at night and they were forced to wear an identifying scarf or cap when outside the ghetto. The area was rife with disease due to the swampy location and as the Jewish population grew (reaching a peak of 7000 people) a lack of space meant cramp conditions and overcrowding.

The Roman Ghetto remained in use until the unification of Italy and in 1888, after more than 300 years, the walls were finally torn down and the area was largely rebuilt. However most of the Jewish community remained in the ghetto neighbourhood and, despite high property prices forcing many families out, to this day it is still considered the heart of Roman Jewish life.

Highlights of the Jewish Ghetto:

The Great Synagogue & The Jewish Museum

After unification in 1870, the old ghetto synagogue was torn down and replaced by this grandiose building on the banks of the Tiber which was completed in 1904. As well as its status as the largest synagogue in Rome, it is also the cultural centre of the Jewish Ghetto and home to the Jewish Museum of Rome which tells the story of Rome’s Jewish community as well as displaying with art and artifacts.

 

Portico d’Ottavia

This spectacular portico was originally constructed by Augustus in 27 BC and was dedicated to his sister Octavia although subsequent fire damage and restorations altered and extended the original features. After being covered with scaffolding for 14 years, the newly restored portico was unveiled in December 2017.

 

Fontana delle Tartarughe

Better known as the ‘Turtle Fountain’ this beautiful sculpture sits in the centre of one of the Ghetto’s loveliest squares, Piazza Mattei. Originally designed in 1581 by Giacomo della Porta for Duke Muzio Mattei, the distinctive turtles were added later by Bernini during a restoration in 1658.

 

Teatro Marcello

This ancient Roman theatre was begun by Julius Caesar and completed by Augustus in 12BC. The architecture of arches provided inspiration for the design of the Colosseum. Used as a fortress in the middle ages, it was later home to the noble Orsini family who built a palace on the top floor. The theatre still hosts classical concerts and recitals during the summer months.

 

And don’t forget the food….

The conditions of the ghetto forced the Roman Jews to adapt all aspects of their daily life, including their food, and nowadays Jewish-Roman cuisine has evolved into a major component of the city’s traditional recipes and the ghetto is now considered to be one of Rome’s culinary hotspots with kosher restaurants, historic bakeries and picturesque pavement cafes.

Typical Roman-Jewish recipes include Carciofi alla giudia (deep-fried artichokes), fiori di zucca (stuffed zucchini flowers), aliciotti e indivia (baked anchovies and endive), filetti di baccalà (fried battered salt cod), pizza ebriaca (a sweet pastry with raisins, candied fruit and nuts), torta ricotta e visciole (ricotta and sour cherry pie).

 

Visit our website to book a private tour of the Jewish Ghetto and Synagogue.



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